Shackfuyu – the pop-up that became a restaurant

Bone Daddies was the winner of our London Ramen Wars. However, after helping to kick off the incredible birth of ramen restaurants in our capital city, owner and ex-Nobu chef Ross Shonhan hasn’t been resting on his laurels.

He opened up Flesh and Buns before snagging a spot on Old Compton St in Soho for what was intended to be a one year pop-up. The clue is in the name of the restaurant – fuyu means winter in Japanese. However, it was such a success that it was refurbished into a permanent restaurant.

I’m a bit late to the party but I finally got to try out the place with fellow foodie Lisa. The restaurant goes back a long way, making the place bigger than it would appear from their small frontage. Reservations are available though we were limited to 90 minutes dining.

The service was good, so there was no issue with filling our tummies successfully with food in that time. The main menu is supplemented with a board of daily specials, which we took advantage of.

We started with scallop sashimi, which was given a hint of citrus highlight and the sweet meat was beautifully presented in a scallop shell.

Korean fried wings were nice but could have survived a more spicy sauce.

Next up was kare pan, a rabbit curry doughnut served with a daikon mayo. The shape and flavour reminded me a little of a Malaysian curry puff though the dough was different and the size a lot bigger. It’s a fun and yummy dish.

The next dish was my joint favourite. The wagyu beef tartare was topped with an egg yolk for extra creaminess and some sesame seeds for nuttiness. Beautifully buttery whether eaten in its own or scooped into the crackers that came with it.

My other favourite dish was also wagyu beef but this time, a wonderfully tender sirloin topped with a moreish sauce.

I picked fatty lamb ribs as I adore well cooked fat. I found the sauce a little salty and it needed the accompanying pickles to temper that.

We finished with one of the restaurant’s signature dishes – a doorstop piece of kinako French toast served with a very generous scoop of green tea ice cream. So generous in fact that we couldn’t finish the ice cream.

Shackfuyu is offering a different take on small plates, which is good but like most small plates places, the cost can stack up quickly. I, for one, though am glad that it’s now a permanent fixture.


Food: ★★★★★ Service: ★★★★☆ Ambiance: ★★★★☆ VFM: ★★★☆☆ Overall: ★★★★☆

Price: Our bill for 2 came to £87

Bone Daddies Shackfuyu
14a Old Compton Street, Soho, London W1D 4TJ

Bone Daddies Shackfuyu Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato Square Meal

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