Before there was 2016 critics’ favourite Hoppers, there was its culinary daddy, Trishna. The Sethi family are legends in London, their magic touch extending from Michelin-starred Trishna and Gymkhana through to Lyle’s and street food turned bricks and mortar Bao.
Their first love though is Indian food. Due to its (Brentry?) wave of immigration from the Indian subcontinent, Britain has been blessed by a profusion of restaurants serving Pakistani/Indian/Bangladeshi food. You can still see the legacy of these restauranteurs trying to cater to the British palates of old by the appearance of dishes like prawn cocktail on curry house menus.
British curry houses have a reputation of being a cheap and cheerful choice for a night out but in its native lands, curry was also food for royalty and nobility. It’s this heritage that Trishna is tapping into.
I took Emma for her first taste of Michelin-starred Indian food on a recent shopping trip to London. Located a few minutes walk off Oxford Street in the heart of Marylebone village, Trishna exudes the class and confidence of a restaurant which has held a Michelin star since 2012.
The best way to sample their menu is probably through one of their multi-course tasting menus but we went a la carte on this occasion.
Popaddoms are of course a must to kick off any Indian meal and straightaway, Trishna shows its quality. We received a variety of mini popaddoms and the accompaniments included an amazing prawn condiment.
For starter, I chose street food favourite aloo shakarkandi chat. You’ll find chat sold at street stalls in India with many variations around the central theme of crispy items, creamy chickpeas, potatoes and a tangy-sweet sauce. The one here was exemplary and a very generous portion.
For mains, one of the choices had to be the legendary Dorset brown crab. According to the menu, this wonderful dish only contains butter, pepper, chilli and garlic to enhance the sweet crabmeat but it does taste more complex if a little hot for Emma.
Our carbs came in the guinea fowl briyani. Each grain of rice had been coated in the spice blend. The main dishes were again generous in portion size and rich, so we had to doggy bag some of our meal home.
A definite cut above your average curry house and an insight into how Indian royalty may have dined.
Food: ★★★★★ Service: ★★★★★ Ambiance: ★★★★☆ VFM: ★★★★★ Overall: ★★★★★
Price: This is Michelin-starred food, both in flavour but also in price. However, it’s good value in my book because this is not your average curry house
15-17 Blandford Street, Marylebone, London W1U 3DG